Debt payoff calculator: snowball vs avalanche.
Everyone knows the avalanche is cheaper. Nobody knows by how much — until they put their own debts in. Both methods, month by month, with the working shown.
Free, instant, and no email needed to see your answer. Everything is worked out in your browser — nothing you type is sent to us.

Both methods, side by side
Your real debts, run month by month, with the interest compounded properly rather than divided by twelve.
The number that surprises people
Not which method is cheaper — everyone knows that. By how much, in pounds and in years.
Then you choose
If the gap is small, take the easier method. If it is thousands, that is worth knowing before you start.
Snowball or avalanche — what does the choice actually cost?
Put your real debts in. The calculator runs both methods month by month, with interest compounding, and shows you what each one costs in pounds and in years. Leave a row at zero if you do not need it.
Buzz Money Coach provides money coaching, not regulated financial advice. This calculator is a guidance tool. It does not make a recommendation about any financial product and cannot take account of your full circumstances. Buzz Money Ltd is not authorised by the FCA. Where a decision genuinely needs regulated advice we say so, and can introduce you to Equity & General (FCA No. 474163) — optional, with no obligation.
What this calculator works out
There are two well-known ways to clear multiple debts. Pay the minimum on everything, then throw every spare pound at one debt at a time — and the only question is which one you pick.
- Avalanche — attack the highest interest rate first. Mathematically the cheapest route, always.
- Snowball — attack the smallest balance first. Psychologically the easiest, because whole debts disappear early and the wins keep you going.
Everyone knows the avalanche is cheaper. Almost nobody knows by how much, which makes the choice impossible to reason about. This calculator answers that question with your actual debts: it runs both methods month by month, compounds the interest properly, and shows you the difference in pounds and in years. Sometimes the gap is a few hundred pounds and the snowball is obviously worth it. Sometimes it is thousands. You cannot know which until you look.
The method, in full
The engine is a month-by-month simulation, not a formula. Each month, for both methods, it does the same four things:
- Add interest to every outstanding balance.
- Pay the minimum on every debt that still has a balance, in the order you entered them, capped at the balance owed.
- Send everything left over to the target debt — the highest APR under the avalanche, the smallest balance under the snowball. If that debt clears mid-month, the remainder rolls straight onto the next target rather than sitting idle.
- Repeat until every balance is zero, recording the month each debt cleared and the interest each one cost.
This is why both methods speed up as they go: when a debt clears, its minimum payment is no longer needed, so it joins the spare money attacking the next one. That compounding of freed-up payments is the whole point of the technique, and it is what a simple ‘total debt divided by monthly payment’ sum completely misses.
How the interest is calculated
An APR is an effective annual rate — the rate you would pay over a year with compounding included. So the equivalent monthly rate is not the APR divided by twelve. It is:
monthly rate = (1 + APR)1/12 − 1
On a 24.9% APR card that is 1.8701% a month, not the 2.075% you would get by dividing by twelve. Dividing by twelve overstates the interest and would make this calculator flatter itself by exaggerating the saving.
Interest is applied to the balance at the start of each month, before payments are made. That is slightly conservative — a real card charges daily on the running balance — and it means the answer errs towards showing more interest rather than less.
The assumptions, stated plainly
- Minimum payments are held flat. Real card minimums are usually a percentage of the balance and fall as the balance does. Holding them flat is the standard approach for this comparison and it treats both methods identically, so the difference between them — which is the number you came for — is sound. Your absolute payoff dates may be slightly optimistic against a falling minimum.
- The monthly amount stays the same throughout. No pay rises, no windfalls, no lean months.
- No new borrowing. The calculator assumes nothing new goes on the cards. In practice that is the assumption that most often breaks, and it breaks the plan with it.
- No fees, charges or promotional rates. Annual fees, late fees and 0% introductory periods are not modelled. A 0% balance transfer changes the picture substantially — enter the post-transfer APR if you have one.
- Overpayment penalties are ignored. Most personal loans allow overpayment but some charge for it; check your agreement before you redirect money to a loan.
- Your figures stay in your browser. Nothing is sent to a server.
Which one should you actually choose?
The best method is the one you will finish. If the difference the calculator shows you is small, take the snowball and enjoy the momentum — a plan you stick to beats an optimal plan you abandon in month four. If the difference is large, that is a genuine argument for gritting your teeth and going after the expensive debt first. Either way you now know the price of the choice instead of guessing at it, which is the point.
One thing that outranks both methods: priority debts come first regardless. Rent, mortgage, council tax, energy and tax have consequences — eviction, bailiffs, court — that no interest rate justifies risking. Deal with those before you optimise anything. Our guide to clearing debt without living like a monk sets out the priority order in full.
If the numbers do not work
If the calculator tells you your monthly amount is below your minimum payments, or that the debts never clear, that is not a rounding problem. It is the honest answer, and it means the situation needs specialist help rather than a better spreadsheet. StepChange and National Debtline are free, independent and confidential, they negotiate with creditors on your behalf, and they can arrange formal solutions. Never pay a company to do what those two do for nothing. Coaching is genuinely useful afterwards, once the immediate pressure is off and the question becomes how to stop it happening again.
About this calculator
What is the difference between the debt snowball and the debt avalanche?
Both methods pay the minimum on every debt and then throw all the spare money at one debt at a time. The avalanche targets the highest interest rate first, which always costs the least overall. The snowball targets the smallest balance first, which clears whole debts sooner and gives you visible wins. The avalanche is cheaper; the snowball is easier to stick to. This calculator shows you the price of that trade-off using your own figures.
Is the avalanche always cheaper than the snowball?
Yes, or equal — never worse. Directing money at the highest rate first always minimises the total interest, and it also finishes at least as quickly. The two produce identical results when your highest-rate debt also happens to be your smallest balance at every step, or when you only have one debt. What varies enormously is the size of the gap: sometimes it is a few pounds and sometimes it is thousands, which is exactly why it is worth calculating rather than assuming.
Why do you convert the APR to a monthly rate instead of dividing by twelve?
Because an APR is an effective annual rate that already includes compounding. The correct monthly equivalent is (1 + APR) to the power of one twelfth, minus one. On a 24.9% APR that gives 1.8701% a month, whereas dividing by twelve gives 2.075% — noticeably more. Dividing by twelve would overstate the interest on every debt and would inflate the apparent saving from choosing the avalanche, so we do not do it.
Do minimum payments really stay the same as the balance falls?
No, and that is the calculator's main simplification. Credit card minimums are usually a percentage of the balance, so they fall as you pay down. Holding them flat is the standard approach for a snowball-versus-avalanche comparison, and because it treats both methods identically the difference between them stays sound. It does mean the absolute payoff dates can be slightly optimistic. Enter a lower minimum if you want a more conservative figure.
What if I cannot even cover the minimum payments?
Then no payoff method applies, and the calculator says so rather than pretending otherwise. Please contact StepChange or National Debtline today — both are free, independent and confidential, both negotiate with creditors on your behalf, and both can arrange formal solutions such as a debt management plan. Priority debts — rent, mortgage, council tax, energy, tax — always come before any of this, because the consequences of missing them are far more serious than interest.
Is this financial advice?
No. Buzz Money Coach provides money coaching, not regulated financial advice. This calculator does arithmetic on the figures you enter and shows its working. It does not recommend a lender, a consolidation loan, a balance transfer card or any other financial product, and it cannot take account of your full circumstances. Buzz Money Ltd is not authorised by the FCA. Debt counselling and debt adjusting are regulated activities we do not carry out — for those, use the free specialist services named above.
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